If anyone is looking to send a package in the next couple of months:
I am starting a girl's group this month and some of the activities I want to do require things I can't get here:
-string and/or beads to make friendship bracelets
-popcorn seeds
-paint markers
-old magazines to make collages with
-needle and thread
-any other random craft you feel like sending
-soccer ball (can get here but terrible quality)
-plain hanes t-shirts
-wire to make jewelry
Also, Ramadan is just around the corner: July 19th to August 19th. During Ramadan, Muslims fast from sun up to sun down which means I will get breakfast at 5am and dinner around 11pm. Any food that is easily storable in my room would be fantastic so I can hide out and munch on some things so I don't lose consciousness during the day. If you are looking to send something before Ramadan, you would need to send a package before June 19th.
Thank you!
Saturday, May 19, 2012
Tree Lotion
After patiently waiting for months to learn how to make lotion, yesterday I finally led a training with my friend Mac. As usual, before having any kind of gathering, I had walked around to people's houses for the previous week telling them what time and where the training would be. That morning I walked to all the important people's houses and once again made sure everyone knew about the lotion session they had all requested. As I was sitting with my family waiting for Mac to arrive, a Japanese volunteer-Awa Sow- I had just met, decided she wanted to stay and help with the training. As a new volunteer she is still in the early stages of Wolof and I was appalled when my family kept telling her that she needed to bring large presents the next time she came and to do this and do that, most of this aimed at making a fool out of here because she couldn't understand . It's one thing when my family does this to me, but an entirely different thing when they do this to a guest.
After lunch me, Mac and Awa made our way over to the market where we had planned our training. We were immediately surrounded by children who were so close they were basically sitting on my back. And of course after waiting for an hour, no women had shown up. Finally someone told us that most of the women were having coffee at a house in the village and that we should do our training there. We walk in and of course there are 20 or so women drinking coffee (all of whom knew of the training and said they would be there).
We start the process and decide we'll talk to whoever's listening and the women who pay attention can teach eachother. Thankfully those who are there are really interested and they listen well. Overall about 35 women saw some part of the process and left with a sample. The lotion we made is called Neem lotion and it not only smells good , but it also protects against malaria carrying mosquitoes. Made with: 1 cup of water, 1 grated bar of soap, 1/3 cup cooking oil, 2 handfuls of Neem leaves and a few Eucalyptus leaves, it's extremely easy and cheap to make.
Overall with a few blips, the training was a success and I was happy until I got home where my mom, sisters and brother/counterpart (all of whom failed to show up) demanded lotion. And then my brother, unable to drop the subject, told us we had to make him a batch the next day. Don't worry, I refused. I told him that if he wants things from me he has to support me, show up to trainings and listen just like everyone else. Goodness.
After lunch me, Mac and Awa made our way over to the market where we had planned our training. We were immediately surrounded by children who were so close they were basically sitting on my back. And of course after waiting for an hour, no women had shown up. Finally someone told us that most of the women were having coffee at a house in the village and that we should do our training there. We walk in and of course there are 20 or so women drinking coffee (all of whom knew of the training and said they would be there).
We start the process and decide we'll talk to whoever's listening and the women who pay attention can teach eachother. Thankfully those who are there are really interested and they listen well. Overall about 35 women saw some part of the process and left with a sample. The lotion we made is called Neem lotion and it not only smells good , but it also protects against malaria carrying mosquitoes. Made with: 1 cup of water, 1 grated bar of soap, 1/3 cup cooking oil, 2 handfuls of Neem leaves and a few Eucalyptus leaves, it's extremely easy and cheap to make.
Overall with a few blips, the training was a success and I was happy until I got home where my mom, sisters and brother/counterpart (all of whom failed to show up) demanded lotion. And then my brother, unable to drop the subject, told us we had to make him a batch the next day. Don't worry, I refused. I told him that if he wants things from me he has to support me, show up to trainings and listen just like everyone else. Goodness.
A Close Encounter With a Senegalese Idiot
After a much needed three day rest at the Linguere office, I felt rejuvenated and ready to return to village. Walking into the garage I noticed five men around the age of 30 sitting by the entrance. So of course to be polite I made sure to greet all of them before walking over to my car and in good form one of the men returned my greeting with a huge smile and a matter of fact "Dafa naaw"--translation: "she is so ugly". Mmm what a great early morning compliment. I turn to this cocky son of a B and ask him--"Are you talking to me? Because if you are, that is just hilarious since you are the ugliest man I have ever seen." He says yes, of course he is talking to me". And so after a moment of contemplation over whether or not I have the energy to deal with this, I decide indeed I do. So I throw down my bag in dramatic fashion, stride right up to him and go to hit him in the face, stopping an inch or so before contact, delighting in his flinch. Then instead of letting him think he got to me, I laugh in his face, shake his hand and tell him he's an ass and to have a good day.
I pick up my bag and walk over to my friend Omar-the owner of the garage and he helps me find a car. I'm sitting reading my book in the car and Omar turns to me laughing and says Idiot is simply an idiot who was attempting to flirt with me. Maybe so. Then idiot comes over to my door, stands uncomfortably close and begins a conversation (more one-sided than not). I inform him that I don't want to talk to him because he's awful and ugly to top it off. But amazingly he fails to get the hint and he continues talking about his beautiful wife and the fact that I'm ugly. Charming. I also find out that he is my cousin, knows my family and is the older brother of the man who professes to be my boyfriend. At this point I've had enough of talking to him so I push him away and shut the door in his face. He walks away and I naively think this is the last I will see of him.
Right before we leave Omar asks me to step out of the car so another man can climb in the back. As I'm standing with my bag in my arms, I don't notice Idiot walking behind me. He walks by, touches my butt and keeps walking. Then he turns back and smiles as I'm yelling at him. I should have hit him while I had the chance!
While some Senegalese men like the Idiot are less than appealing, there are others who give me hope in Senegalese mankind--Assane Sayel--owner of a boutique in Dhara. I was introduced to Assane by my friend Laura who told me that he was amazing and that he would never try to rip me off or treat me like a walking moneybag.
After not seeing him for awhile, I stopped by his shop in search of a cot. Unfortunately he didn't have any but he told me where to go and how much to pay. Then he invited me to sit away from the heavy glare of the sun and he served me ice cold water. He asked me to stay so we could talk since I hadn't been by in awhile, so we sat and caught up while his apprentice sewed mattresses behind us. He told me multiple times that I was a good person and that he was impressed by my strength. He told me that he is happy when he sees women running and working hard because he believes women should be viewed as equals (not like they are treated here). He also said I was brave and that it was important for me to experience the world so I can have knowledge of different cultures and languages, and also that he hopes to do the same. He told me that he wants to help me in any way he can--whether that is bringing orders to my house, giving me a ride to St. Louis for the jazz fest, or coming to talk to my family or come get me if I ever have a problem in village. Feeling uplifted by the compliments and assurances that I was doing good things in Senegal, I hopped on a horse cart to go home (after I promised to eat dinner with his family and play guitar and drums with him in the future). On the cart I got a call from Assane asking me if I could eat lunch with his family, which alas I couldn't because I was already on my way home.
Although the morning didn't start out well, Assane and my favorite fabric store owner (who walked me all around the market asking people where I could find a cot) succeeded in canceling out Mr. Idiot's idiocy.
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Recap of the First Quarter
At six months into my service (eight months in Senegal) I feel like it’s time for a little recap. Peace Corps has thus far been the most exciting, eye-opening, inspiring, stressful as hell, challenging and life changing experience of my life…they weren’t joking when they said this is the hardest job you will ever love. With conducting all of my work in a language completely foreign to English, being placed in a region dubbed “the last true Peace Corps experience in Senegal because all we have to rely on is eachother” by the Country Director, and also being the only agroforestry volunteer within 5 hours of me (there are at least 3 agfo volunteers in every other region)—Peace Corps sure handed me a challenge. But while living in Kolda amid luscious green forests and waterfalls or having a site mate would be great, it’s kind of nice knowing that Peace Corps has the confidence to place me in one of the toughest areas of the country (especially for an ag volunteer given the climate and resources here), a place that needs all the help it can get. On the really tough days, when the sun is setting and I should be sitting at home, I hide out in the field just to have a rare moment of privacy, peace and quiet…but then just as often when work is fantastic, I love lying on my family’s mat and just talking, playing with the kids and looking at the shooting stars. As other volunteers describe it, Peace Corps Senegal is truly a minute by minute experience.
A few quick notes:
1. If you haven’t read or if you have but read it awhile ago, read the Poisonwood Bible by Barbara Kingsolver. Not only is she an amazing writer, but it is incredible how well that book describes my life here. Everything from the way she describes cooking to the gris-gris people wear. If you want to get a better understanding of life in Senegal, please read it. (although take note some major differences-we don’t have torrential rainfall here, there are no rivers near me, and unfortunately I do not get to eat manioc everyday)
2. If you are interested in trying out some Senegalese cuisine: Bostoners check out Taranga’s in the South End and New Yorkers go to 116th or 125th streets in Harlem
If you really want to impress the restaurant owners try out these phrases (spelled out phonetically):
Asalam malakum (hello)….they will respond malakum salam
Nunga def (how are you)…response: mangee fee rekk. (I am here only)
Naka leegAy bee? (how is the work)…response: mungee doe (it’s going) or sant yalla boo bah (thank God a lot) or Jaam rekk (peace only)
Boog naa…(I want)
Jehrehjef (thank you)
Now for the good stuff:
Top 5 Things I Love Most About Senegal
1. The fact that every time anyone walks into a boutique, a house, a car, etc., they always greet everyone
2. I can walk into a random person’s compound at lunchtime and they will offer me delicious food
3. I have camels in my backyard
4. Not in my village, but when I am at the office or in Dhara, I can walk a minute out the door and there is a bean sandwich lady in the morning or a chicken sandwich lady at night-both of which cost less than $1
5. Lying on the mat at the end of the night with my family and friends
Top 5 Things I Can’t Stand About Senegal:
1. Women here are second class citizens who are expected to cook, clean and take care of the children every day without complaint and accept the fact that their husbands will most likely take a 2nd, 3rd or even 4th wife
2. The sense of time in Senegal: When a meeting is set to start at 9am, people will usually show up and get started at noon (that is not an exaggeration)
3. Having little anonymity/privacy/independence: it would be so nice to be able to go for a run and not have to pause my music every time I pass any random person
4. While on the topic of running-having to wear ankle length leggings with basketball shorts over them in 100 degree heat and still be called ‘sexy slutty’ when I run by an idiot riding by on a horse cart
5. People assuming that I am rich and thus asking me for everything under the sun
Things I miss the most about America
1. Family and friends so, so much!
2. American food/nutritious food that isn’t 100% carbs/the fact that you can hop in your car, drive two minutes down the road and pretty much find any food you’re craving (although we do have fresh mangoes everywhere here-take that America!)
3. Feeling clean. My feet have not been totally clean in 8 months.
4. A culture where people truly love and take care of animals. Senegalese sense of fair animal treatment is throwing rocks at dogs and kicking cats (my 30 year old cousin sprints out of the compound if he even glimpses my tiny kitten)
5. Dressing like a real person. Not that I don’t love the ankle length skirts and hanes tank tops, but it would be so nice to be fashionable for a day
10 Most Memorable Moments in Senegal
1. Finding out that I had amoebas living inside my body
2. Sitting with my Linguere family on a ledge overlooking the ocean, watching the sunset and toasting Father Christmas
3. Riding a camel in my backyard (and not falling!)
4. On my first horse cart ride, climbing into the back with my friend Amanda and tipping the entire thing over and falling flat on the ground laughing my face off
5. Every soccer practice with the men’s soccer team in my training village-playing in the sand with guys (for the most part) faster and stronger than me was by far the best workout of my life
6. Giving my first training in Wolof to 50-150 people at a time
7. Rapping beats about Senegal/singing Lean On Me at the top of our voices in the back of a pick up truck as we were pulling into Dahra
8. Carving watermelon jack o’lanterns for Halloween at the training center
9. The first day in my village-being left to the wolves by Peace Corps-50 women dancing and singing around me who I couldn’t understand, and then being told I had to eat a lunch of plain rice by myself in my room, facing away from the door (I have never missed home more)
10. A random village day- we had maafe for lunch (my favorite meal), followed by spaghetti for dinner, followed by soccer matches at night…that was a great day. (the power of food here is boggling)
5 Top Favorite foods
1. Maffe- a rice based dish with a thick peanut sauce that usually comes with cabbage, potatoes and sometimes cow meat
2. Spaghetti, macaroni or vermicelli-nothing like we have at home, they cook it super duper mushy and cook it in a vinegar sauce with onions and sometimes meat
3. Domuda- similar to maafe but a spicier, thinner sauce that sometimes comes with fish balls
4. Tamarind-they make this amazing, vinegary, spicy concoction make out of Tamarind seeds…soo good!
5. Mangos and Ardo vanilla yogurt-do I need to say more?
Hardest things I have had to see/work with
1. On multiple occasions when I have been traveling, I have seen women with late stages of AIDS have to be lifted into the car because they are so sick and they are finally seeing a doctor
2. Talibes that have no shoes to protect them from the hot sand and no coats to protect them from the cold
3. Animals being abused, mistreated and/or beaten
4. Women having very little freedom
5. Finding people who are motivated to work and learn
1. Fish net cloth makes an awesome sifter when I am pounding cow poop
2. I can get my whole body clean with half a bucket of water
3. Beans with hard-boiled eggs, onion sauce, peas, mayonnaise, and mustard on a sandwich is heaven
4. If you take 3 Benadryl before bed, it will help you sleep through unbearable heat
5. When your kitten is convulsing it is probably because it ate too much salty fish and did not drink enough water-lesson learned
1. I just saw a guy wearing a Red Sox jersey in Dahra…I have to call Mark and Tommy!
2. I just went to St. Louis for the first time and I ate ice cream, a cheeseburger, pesto pasta, candy bars, omelet sandwiches and meat….I have to call Anya!
3. I just saw a woman riding a motorcycle with a guy on the back….I have to call Eliza!
4. I just saw ‘How I Met Your Mother’ on a TV in French…I have to call Emma, Eliza and Jenny!
5. I just got stood up for the third time, trying to have a meeting with my women’s group…I have to call mom!
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